He pulled a Red Green move and used duct tape (if you’ve never seen that show then i’m sorry- go watch it!!!)
The picture above shows pool noodles taped on the sides and the middle.
The side noodles stopped my elbows from sliding and the middle section supported my chest.
After he was done taping and taping and taping and taping and taping, he waxed it allllllll up!
This made a HUGE difference.
I know what you’re thinking – was I scared?! Yes…Duh, but not until I got in the water. When you’re on the sand looking out to the water the waves look tiny, powerless, and pathetic.
I thought this will be cake, BRING IT ON! Pshhh those waves have nothing on me.
….. then I got on the board……
First, we had to make it past the breaking waves. This was the toughest part. Wave after wave after wave, we kept getting hit. The noodles helped me keep my head and chest up, but A LOT of salt water still splashed in my face. Bryan (my brother, also the stud that’s in most of these pictures) kept wiping my eyes so i could see.
Eventually, we made it past the breakers and made it to the big waves. These were huge waves, but minimal splashing.
When you’re laying on your stomach at the trough (bottom) of the wave and look up, it looked 3x taller. l’m face to face with this wave that could easily swallow me. I can feel the power as it grew. All i could think of was ccccrrrraaaaaapppp
So naturally, I sucked it up. I’m already on the board, might as well do it. The worst that can happen is I die…
ok just kidding that would be really bad
Next was the actual surfing part.
f i n a l l y
We turned the board around and waited for the best wave.
Bryan shouted, “ready Abs?!”
i shouted back “heck yeah!!!!!”
I was so nervous!!!! The adrenaline took over any sanity I had left.
Here comes the wave…
You think my face says woo hoo but really it was “I think I might die but whatevs!!!!”
Now I’m thinking, “Ok this is actually happening. I’m not dead.. This is really fun”
Then this happened…
The first time I fell off I went face first in the water. I can’t flip over so I had to hold my breath till help came. Luckily, they were right there and they picked me up right away. It was a little freaky but not enough to stop me. So naturally, I got back on the board.
The second time I fell off (the three pics above) I landed on my back. I was farther from help, but I could breathe so I wasn’t scared at all. I just closed my eyes and relaxed till help came.
Back on the board I gooooo!!
If you want to try surfing (and you’re in a chair) here are some tips: